The second half of the birthday treat bonanza were these gougeres.  I had never made them before, but I had some parsley and eggs so, why not? Pam at eggs on sunday makes them look like a piece of cake. This was not the most relaxing recipe I’ve ever executed…my pate-a-choux never quite dried out like it was supposed to, but I could tell it was over-cooking.  The over-cooked dough then didn’t pipe very nicely and to top it all off…the little suckers hardly puffed at all. (This would be the time to mention Pam is also a classically trained chef.)  At the height of my frustrations, I asked Manfriend to open the blinds for more light. And then we realized: it was SNOWING. I screamed with joy and all was right in the world.

So, they weren’t up to my (admittedly exceedingly high) standards, but they were quite tasty, and every last one was devoured during the celebrations.

Goat Cheese and Herb Gougeres
eggs on sunday


  • 1 cup milk
  • 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 5 large eggs, divided
  • 1/2 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese; use something local if you can get it
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chives or parsley
  • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese


  • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and line two baking sheets with Silpats or parchment paper.
  • In a medium saucepan,  combine the butter, milk and salt and bring to a boil.

off to a smooth start

  • Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour all at once. Whisk for a few minutes, then return the pan to the heat and continue whisking to dry the paste out slightly.

and then things so quickly went a wry

  • Remove the heat from the pan again, switch to a wooden spoon, and add 4 of the eggs — one at a time — stirring to make sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next.

  • Stir in the goat cheese and chopped fresh herbs.

  • Pipe the batter onto the baking sheets (or drop by the tablespoonful).

maybe we're back on track?

  • Beat the remaining egg, then brush the tops of each puff with it. Sprinkle each with a little grated Parmesan cheese.

consider yourself lucky you were spared from the piping disaster. notice the awkwardly shaped plops of dough.

you look nice. back on track again?

  • Bake each sheet, one at a time, in the 375 degree F oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees F and continue cooking for another 5-10 minutes, until the tops are nicely browned and the gougeres are puffed. Serve warm, or let cool completely and freeze in a ziptop bag (you can reheat in an oven on a baking sheet before you’re ready to serve.)

Makes about 2 dozen, plus a few.

and the train has completely come off the tracks. where's the puff?!?!

Despite their lackluster oven performance, they did make a nice party food because they can be easily transported (once cooled) in a ziplock and reheated quickly in an oven.

C’est la vie.


One response

  1. I have a friend here at the French Culinary Institute. She said she tried pate-a-choux quite a few times before she enrolled and failed each time. After being taught in class, she thinks it’s easy. There must be some trick that no one writes about…. Looks amazingly delicious. 🙂

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